When I told my friend Barb about the whole Palata oil thing and how that is no longer available, etc. (subject of my February 9, 2011 post), she asked if I had inquired about the composition of Palata. I had not.
Another email was very promptly answered by Conway Foods with the information that Palata was comprised of 68% soybean oil, 20% corn oil and 12% olive oil. What? So that means the primary ingredient in Hoelzel is actually supermarket vegetable oil. No wonder it is so difficult to replicate. Despite the listed recipe ingredients - listed in the Three Rivers Cookbook, on the internet, and in the recipe from the chef himself -- there is hardly any olive oil in it at all. I naively thought perhaps it had to do with the nationality of the olive oil used. I certainly assumed there was more than a splash of olive oil. Wrong!
So much for the accuracy of published recipes, or the assumption that fine dining establishments use fine ingredients.
I think this will be my last posting on Hoelzel dressing. I also think I am not going to try to replicate the Duquesne Club recipe. It tastes pretty good using olive oil.
Sunday, February 27, 2011
Sunday, February 20, 2011
Hazelnut Oil-Mustard Vinaigrette
A simple, tasty vinaigrette using hazelnut oil:
2 T country dijon or other grainy mustard
several scallions, finely chopped
1 T sherry vinegar
1 T cider vinegar
6 T roasted hazelnut oil
salt and pepper
Mix mustard, vinegars and scallions. Whisk in oil and add salt and pepper.
Great with bread and on salad. The hazelnut oil seems very light but, not surprisingly, adds a nice, nutty aroma and taste. I thought it was a little too mustardy, but others thought it was just right.
2 T country dijon or other grainy mustard
several scallions, finely chopped
1 T sherry vinegar
1 T cider vinegar
6 T roasted hazelnut oil
salt and pepper
Mix mustard, vinegars and scallions. Whisk in oil and add salt and pepper.
Great with bread and on salad. The hazelnut oil seems very light but, not surprisingly, adds a nice, nutty aroma and taste. I thought it was a little too mustardy, but others thought it was just right.
Wednesday, February 9, 2011
Follow up
On January 4, I posted about making The Duquesne Club's Hoelzel dressing using Spanish, Italian and Greek olive oils.
I wrote to Keith Coughenour, Executive Chef at the Duquesne Club inquiring about what kind of olive oil the Club used. Chef Coughenor responded that they use product called Palata from Conway Foods, which he said is a combination of olive, soy and vegetable oil. He said this is a very mild oil, "almost neutral, thus allowing the vinegars to enhance and to a degree contrast the sweetness of the crabmeat." He noted that they use Heinz tarragon and cider vinegars. He emphasized using fresh ground pepper.
He also kindly provided the recipe used by the Duquesne Club, as set forth below. I know, the last ingredient listed belies the foregoing, but, what can I tell you, this is direct from the chef. And please read what follows the recipe for the "rest of the story":
Hoelzel Dressing
Yields 1 quart
1 c. tarragon vinegar
1 c. cider vinegar
1 T. kosher salt
1 T. coarse ground black peppercorn
2 c. olive oil
Combine well. Refrigerate.
Although I assumed it was only available commercially, I started looking for Palata. It wasn't showing up on any internet search, nor on the Conway Foods website. So I wrote to Conway Foods to see if I had the right product name, etc. Conway advised that due to low demand they have discontinued Palata and that the final shipments of the product were made in December, 2010. I hope the Duquesne Club made a very large order. Some of the diners may soon notice a subtle change in their favorite appetizer. Perhaps I should make available my consulting services on the subject.
I wrote to Keith Coughenour, Executive Chef at the Duquesne Club inquiring about what kind of olive oil the Club used. Chef Coughenor responded that they use product called Palata from Conway Foods, which he said is a combination of olive, soy and vegetable oil. He said this is a very mild oil, "almost neutral, thus allowing the vinegars to enhance and to a degree contrast the sweetness of the crabmeat." He noted that they use Heinz tarragon and cider vinegars. He emphasized using fresh ground pepper.
He also kindly provided the recipe used by the Duquesne Club, as set forth below. I know, the last ingredient listed belies the foregoing, but, what can I tell you, this is direct from the chef. And please read what follows the recipe for the "rest of the story":
Hoelzel Dressing
Yields 1 quart
1 c. tarragon vinegar
1 c. cider vinegar
1 T. kosher salt
1 T. coarse ground black peppercorn
2 c. olive oil
Combine well. Refrigerate.
Although I assumed it was only available commercially, I started looking for Palata. It wasn't showing up on any internet search, nor on the Conway Foods website. So I wrote to Conway Foods to see if I had the right product name, etc. Conway advised that due to low demand they have discontinued Palata and that the final shipments of the product were made in December, 2010. I hope the Duquesne Club made a very large order. Some of the diners may soon notice a subtle change in their favorite appetizer. Perhaps I should make available my consulting services on the subject.
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